USA Trip Figures

During my trip I

- sailed: 2601 nautical miles ( 1 nautical mile equals 1.15 statute miles ) = 2991 m

- drove by car 3497 m

- drove by train 2250 m

- flew across the States 2309 m

- flew from the States to the UK 5266 m

Total 16313 m or 26'253 km

28.9.2015 Boise Airport & Phoenix Airport

For the first time since I am travelling my alarm clock had to wake me up this morning.

Not that I was in a rush but I wanted to be on the safe side as still some packing needed

to be done, a leisurely breakfast was planned and last but not least the car had to be 

returned to the rental agent.

Of course everything went fine and I was well ahead of time at the airlines check-in 

counter and was more then happy to get rid of my two bags. I will see them again,

hopefully !, in London.

Sitting in the departure lounge in Phoenix, AZ, where I have an almost 5 ½ hour long

stop-over I am writing this last blog of 2015 USA travel.

I have a simple conclusion: it was in every way a big success:

I met my cousin in Detroit after a looong time again and we both walked very often on memory lane

I travelled for the first time ( but not for the last time ) with an transatlantic ocean liner to States.

I had during the whole time only fantastic weather. Ok there have been two/three occasions where I had light rain. Doesn’t count.

I met quite a few interesting people and had good conversations with them.

I saw exceptional beautiful landscapes: mountains, prairie, dessert, lakes, rivers, not the atlantic as well as the pacific

etc

etc

etc

Now the question is: WHAT NEXT ?

27.9.2015 Boise,ID

With no special program planned for my last day in the US I took it easy.

During a late and nice breakfast I decided  to visit the State Capitol. With Boise being

the capital of the State of Idaho the city has to have a capitol building and knowing the

US it has to be an imposing building. The Capital Hgw was quickly found and one could

already see the building at its end. Being a Sunday there was hardly any traffic on the road

and a parking spot just around the corner quickly found. The State Capitol is a smaller

version of the Capitol in Washington with the usual US regalia around it. To my amazement

the building was open and one could simply step in. No security guard, now security check,

you simply walk in and look around. I wish it would be that easy to visit our Houses of

Parliament where elaborate security checks are been done and an admission fee is charged.

Over here nothing of that sort. Whilst it was not possible ( understandable ) to walk into individual

offices like for example of the governor one could still see the Senate chamber and the House

of Representatives. Impressive was the rotunda with its huge dome.

Downstairs was an educational centre where the workings of both houses are been explained and

only there a lovely lady paid attention and answered questions. I asked her about the “open house”.

Her reply: “ We are an open democracy”. Somehow a contradiction to what else is going on.

Nevertheless she proposed that I should visit another interesting State building: The Old Idaho Penitentiary Site.

With nothing else planned I took up that suggestion and made the short drive to the site in the outskirts of

Boise. Walking through this old prison was very interesting as the changes in the treatment of prisoners over the

years and how they where accommodated was still very visible. The prison was closed in 1973 and is now one

of only four prisons in the States which one can visit.

On may way back I stopped in Boise downtown to see if the cities motto “City of Trees” is true and found that they

still have some lovely old buildings and yes lots of trees. In the meantime the cities people frequented the streets

and populated the outdoor restaurants and cafes so a stop for refreshments was more then adequate.

With shops open on Sundays I stopped on my way “home” at a local supermarket and bought a few things I want

to take with me.

Late dinner and then start packing, at least sorting everything.

 

26.9.2015 Pocatello,ID to Boise,ID

Bright sunshine and morning temperature already 64 F. The thermometer climbed during the day to 89 F.

Strangely not hot because a light breeze freshened everything up a bit.

AS my travels in the US are coming now to an end and basically everything is geared towards my departure on

Monday from Boise Airport I originally planned to make a straight ride to Boise but with a little detours. To avoid

driving part of the road again ( I drove most of to when I originally arrived in Boise from Seattle on my way to the

Yellowstone ) I avoided as much as possible the same road using like yesterday small country roads.

On my way to the Yellowstone I had learned that a very famous writer, Ernest Hemingway, is been buried in Ketchum,

Idaho. After I visited his birthplace in Oak Park/Chicago, I found it more then fitting to visit his final resting place.

Hemingway came for the first time back in 1939 to Ketchum in the Sun Valley after the Union Pacific chairman invited him

and other celebrities to the area. He stayed in a local hotel where wrote “For Whom The Bell Tolls”. Originally he stayed during

the winter month in Cuba and the summer month in Ketchum. Then in 1959 he gave up Cuba and bought a house in Ketchum.

Being depressive he committed suicide on July 2nd, 1961. His last wife, Mary, is buried next to him.

Unfortunately his house wasn’t open anymore so I drove on to reach in the early afternoon my motel in Boise, just around

the corner from the airport. Very convenient.

 

 

25.9.2015 Grand Teton National Park to Pocatello,ID

Again a cold start but not for long.

After the days in parks with the mountains, huge forests, deep blue lakes and geysers I left this 

peaceful and serene area doing one last view back. The Tetons, blue sky, sunshine and autumn

colours. What a good-bye !

Passing through Jackson Hole ( hole being an old trapper name for valley ) the mountains petered

slowly out and the landscape changed to rolling hills with huge plains where either wheat was grown

or cattle farming been done.

A drive about 3 hours long was like that farm land and cattle ranches and once in a while a small village.

Very often you only knew that somewhere people must be living because their letterbox was right at the

etch of the road. The temperature had in the meantime changed to a quite warm 82 F. Summer ? !

Deliberately I had chosen to drive via small country roads where I was very often alone on the road and

only occasionally a pick-up of a local farmer (?) was passing or overtaking me. These people know their

road !

Somewhere in the middle of nowhere I passed the stateline between Wyoming and Idaho and reached

at one point in time a mining area. Potash is been mined near Soda Springs. The name of this town made

me curious and yes they have a spring. And what a spring. Right in the middle of the town a geyser

erupts every hour on the hour.

Heading on I reached after a few miles the lovely little city called Lava Hot Springs where a nice outside

pool area was inviting for a swim in the nice warm waters. Several hotels and motels are catering for the

guests. The city lies in a very green valley with lots of trees and with the State Road 30 half way up the hill.

Fromm here Pocatello, my todays destination, was only a few miles away

Having stayed for the last 6 nights always in very rustic lodgings my tonights motel was quite a change.

24.9.2015 Grand Teton National Park

Late last night I made a little walk through the cabin village: pitch black and clear sky.

No light pollution at all and one could see stars one can’t usually see. Quite an experience.

An experience was also this morning: again blue sky and bright sunshine but quite cool, actually

cold 29 F. I had to switch on the electric heater in the cabin.

Like on all previous days in the mountains that changed during the morning. 

Today I round-trip through the park as on the agenda but first I had to get a map. At the Ranger

Station in Colter Bay Village help was at hand and the lovely park ranger gave me also some 

advise how to tackle the roundtrip. I was a bit disappointed when she mentioned the driving takes

about 1 ½ i 2 hours. Only ? Yes but that does not include doing the sightseeing.

BTW: I left at 9 am and came back at 4 pm

The Grand Teton is different from the Yellowstone as such as he is smaller and consists basically of

the Teton Mountain Range and the flatlands and lakes in front of the range. The mountains are rising

straight out of the flatlands and there peaks are mostly snow covered.  Looking at them from a distance

makes it a majestic view. A touch of autumn colours generated by yellow leafed birch trees and some

others make it even somewhat colourful. I hope the attached picture brings that somehow across.

Back at the cabin village I had an inquiry at the registration office and learned at that point in time that

at the end of this month they as well as many other lodges, cabin villages not to mention RV parks etc. 

are closing for the season. End of October/Beginning of November the Park Service is then closing 

also many roads. Some of them only been opened in late June or even later when the snow is gone.

Tomorrow ( Friday ) I am leaving the area and Wyoming and have a bit a longer drive to Pocatello, Idaho.

 

 

23.9.2015 Yellowstone National Park to Grand Teton National Park

Again a very frosty start of day. I even found some hoarfrost on the top of my car.

But like yesterday this changed during the morning very quickly.

Having settled my bill I said my good-bys to the Three Bear Lodge headed for the Yellowstone Park

entry and drove, by-passing all the attractions along the way as my fist destination of the day was

the Yellowstone Lake. At West Thumb the lake starts. Deep blue water, surrounded by the mountains.

Interestingly there are many geysers directly at the shore of the lake, some of them already in the

water. Again proof how active the underground world of this park is. As only the northern side of the

lake is accessible by road I drove with various stops all the way to Fishing Bridge where the Yellowstone

River leaves the lake. The Lake Lodge, a huge log constructions from the last century, is worth a visit

just to look at the main reception hall: massive fireplace and everything made out of wood: floor, walls,

ceiling, furniture, everything. It was planned that I have a little refreshment in the lodge’s cafeteria, but as

this time of the year is out of season they have only open for breakfast and dinner.

The nearby Yellowstone General Store catered at least for a cup of coffee and a warm cinnamon roll.

With the view on the lake this was like heaven.

As my todays final destination the Grand Teton Park is south of Yellowstone I drive all the way along the

Yellowstone Lake and turned at West Thumb in an southernly direction. Passing another jewel, Lewis Lake,

I reached the exit of the Yellowstone Park and followed now the John D.Rockefeller Jr. Memorial Parkway

( he was a big purchase of land in this area which he donated to the nation and forms now a big part of

the Grand Teton Park ) to reach the entry of the Grand Teton National Park.

This park is different from the Yellowstone as it concentrates on the majestic mountain range of the Tetons,

ranging from 12’514 ft to 13’770 ft ( 3814 m to 4197 m ), peaks covered with snow and the Jackson Lake.

Quickly I reached also my accommodation : Colter Bay Village Cabins.

Yes cabins. I even sleeping for the next two nights in an authentic log cabin. According to little pamphlet

on the dresser originally build about 1930.

The cabins are only a few steps away from the lake and an evening walk at around sunset time was majestic.

Good night !

22.9.2015 Yellowstone National Park ( Mountains and Canyons Day )

Bright sunshine but the morning temperature was 32 F ( 0 C ). 

I had to drive with the heating on for quite some time but luckily after some time it got much much

warmer.

Today I made a left turn to head towards the northern part of the park to concentrate on the mountains

and canyons but geysers and hot-springs can’t be avoided in Yellowstone and they are following you.

The most impressive stops on todays was Mammoth Hot Springs , a large complex of hot springs on a 

hill of travertine created over thousands of years out of mineral deposits created by the around 170 F hot

water. Very colourful as ell with the colours created by algae living in the warm pools and have given them

colours of brown, red, orange and green. Mammoth Hot Springs is also a little town with the oldest still

existing commercial building, a hotel, in the park. Build long before the Park was actually created.

Here, right next to one of the houses, I had my next animal encounter: an elk with his female herd ( or

better harem ? ). Lying there peacefully and chewing away some grass. The Park Service had blocked the

road and some rangers held watch. They explained that some elk herds came that close as they are living

close by but the majority is hardly seen. What an experience.

Driving the road went already through various narrow valleys, climbed over mountains and lead in sharp bends

and curves around them. Then in just in front of me again a little hold-up. A few cars moving slowly and people

watching closely the roadside: mountain sheep, a whole herd. A ranger closely watching. With a turnout just in 

front of me, I parked the car and walked back, equipped with my camera ( including zoom ). The ranger made

sure that the traffic moved slowly along and that the group of people didn’t to close. Not because of the sheep

but there was another creature lurking around: a little brown bear. Thanks to my zoom I was able to take a few

pictures, one of them below. What an experience ! 

After a few miles the first signs announcing the Yellowstone River Canyon appeared. Following the signs to

the Northern Rim Loop the main car park was quickly reached. 

First to the Lookout Point. Wow ! Obviously not as big ( or gigantic ) as the Grand Canyon but still more then

impressive. Intrigued I then walked down to reach the point right next to the Lower Fall to be only yards away from the

point where the water thunders down. As one can image not only one picture was made but several ( an understatement ! ).

One of them, an overview, I have uploaded below.

Driving along the Loop I visited several other viewing points, each time looking the canyon from an different angel,

each time different light, each time different colour and each time a new spectacular experience.

With all that excitement the time had passed very quickly and it was, at least for me, time to head back. As there are

speed restrictions in the whole park it took some time to reach the western gate of the park in West Yellowstone.

Tonight is also my last night in the Three Bear Lodge. Tomorrow morning I will start driving to the Grand Teton National

Park who is basically an extension to Yellowstone. On my way  to Mousse ( a little tiny village in Grand Teton where I

will staying ) I will be passing the Yellowstone Lake, another highlight.

In Mousse I will be staying for two nights in a log cabin. Whilst they have electricity they don’t have I learned, TV and

Internet. Will I survive this ? YES but the up-date of my Blog and my tour tracking will be delayed until Friday.

So long.

 

 

21.9.2015 Yellowstone National Park ( Geyser and meadows day )

I was greeted with bright sunshine when I stepped out of my lodge room but it was cold ( 41 F / 5 C ) but fortunately that was about to change for 

the better during the day.

After breakfast I headed for the west entry to the park, a short drive just down the road from my lodge. Entry fee is steep  ( $ 50 ) but the nice ranger

at the toll booth explained that the ticket is valid for 7 days and does include the Grand Teton National Park ( my next destination of Yellowstone )

as well. With this in mind I happily parted with my dollars and went off.

Despite the fact that since Labour day the kids are back to school and the major holiday traffic is over I was surprised how many people are still

vacationing.

The road follows for a few miles the Madison River and then one has two choices: left or right. I had already decided yesterday evening when

looking at the park map to concentrate today and the meadows and geysers. So I turned right .

Tomorrow will be peaks, canyons and rivers. One has to be organised. Right ? !

Driving through the peaceful, still and serene landscape one doesn’t realise that below the surface a completely different world exists. The

Yellowstone is the result of a gigantic volcanic eruption and most of the park is the crater ( or caldera ). The magma chambers are only a few miles

below the surface and as recent as in 1985 volcanic eruptions have happened and changed the park at places dramatically. Leaves one with

the question when the next one will happen.

These eruptions do occur even daily in much much smaller scale like for example of the Old Faithful Geyser, my first destination point but the traffic came all

over sudden to a complete stop. Traffic jam in the park ? Accident ?

Slowly, stop and go, the traffic moved forward through the forest until part of the plains appeared and the reason for the hold-up: Bisons. A herd of

about 20-30 animals happily grazing right next to the road. Obviously every car almost stopped ( me as well ) to take some pictures. But one had to move

on and soon I reached the geyser area with Old Faithful.

He erupts with a certain predictability every 1 ½ hours ( +/- 10 min ) and as the last one had just happened a little while ago I used the “waiting time"

to go the Visitors Centre. The National Park Service does a fantastic job in explained all the in and outs of the park using various objects and pictures

and does even show some fantastic movies one of which I watched. Fantastic photography so that I decided to visit the souvenir shop and buy the

DVD.  At the predicted time I was at the spot and sure, almost on the minute, he erupted. Firstly slowly but then…  Gigantic. 

Makes one wonder how it looks below.

As mentioned today was geyser and meadows day so I visited a couple of other spots where one can see what nature has in stall in regards of colours,

consistency and smells. I have put some pictures below.

All these places are in one part of the park but not necessarily a few years apart so that a little driving was necessary and if one has fun time flies they

say. So all over sudden in was very late afternoon and time to return.

Not only me I thought but others as well because again: hold-up. A few cars in front of me a herd of bisons crossed the road: gracefully, one

after the other, in almost slow motion not taking notice of the cars at all.

When this “obstacle” was gone traffic moved again but not for long. A lone bison bull walking peacefully and gracefully in the middle of the road, almost

on the yellow line. Driving past him I could look into his eyes. Really !

From now on no more hold-ups and I reached the Three Bear Lodge safely.

Such an eventful day required a great dinner well. The Lodge has a very good restaurant so that I decided to indulge a 10 oz Prime Rib, Wrangler Cut,

medium cooked and washed down with a local beer: Old Faithful Golden Ale from the Grand Teton Brewing Co.

Simply bloody fantastic.

Enjoy the pictures !

 

 

 

20.9.2015 Idaho Falls, ID to West Yellowstone, MT

Glorious sunshine, blue sky, temperatures around 68 F.

Fantastic !

Todays drive is if one takes the direct way only a 2 ½ hours drive. I took a long detour. According to my GPS 5 h but it took

me much longer, not because of the longer distance but because of the sights.

It started with a gentle climb into the Idaho mountains on I-15. The (I)interstates ate comparable with our motorways and if

one wants to see something not necessarily the right road. But not in my case. First of all there was hardly any traffic and 

secondly the scenery was fantastic. Mile-long cattle farmland on both sides and high mountains, some with snow covered

peaks on sometimes both sides as well and above all that the blue sky and the sun. Not that we do not have fantastic scenery

in England as well, no, but its the sheer size of everything which makes it simply overwhelming.

At the Monida Pass ( 6833 feet ) I crossed from Idaho into Montana and followed the road until I reached the Dillon exit.

Leaving the Interstate behind me the drive continued on a normal country road. Cattle farming and horse breeding for miles

along the road. Alongside the road very x-number of miles just the entry to a race with interesting names above the typical

arch: Blue Creek Farm, Moonshine Farm etc.etc.  “Ruby Range” how this land is called is almost flat.

Having reached “Virginia City” one has to stop and explore. This whole town is a former gold town and now an open air museum.

Read here for more details: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Virginia_City,_Montana

People are still living in Virgina City, just about 200, but all buildings along the main road are the museum. Fascinating.

Heading on a steep climb around a bend followed and one is presented with an breathtaking view: the Madison Valley with

the snow peaked Madison Range. The range extends 80 miles (130 km) from West Yellowstone, Montana to

Bozeman, Montana and is flanked by the Madison River on the west and the Gallatin River to the east. The highest point

in the range is Hilgard Peak at 11,316 ft (3,449 m).

I took several pictures ( one is below ) and absorbed this fantastic view for a long time for heading on. At Ennis I left the road

and headed Route 247 in a southernly direction through the Madison Valley. Cattle and sheep farms every now and then on 

both sides of the road with the Madison Rage on the left and the smaller Gravely Range to my right. The road: like drawn with 

a ruler.

The road went into the Madison River Canyon and the Earthquake Lake. Back 1959 a very powerful earthquake made almost

a whole mountain slide into the canyon. The landslide created a dam, the Madison River couldn’t flow anymore hence the lake

created. One can still see where all that happened.

The road follows the river  and and then finally my today’s destination the town of West Yellowstone is reached. 

My motel, the “Three Bear Lodge” was quickly found. For two full days I will be staying here to ex[lore the Yellowstone Park.

 

19.9.2015 Boise, ID to Idaho Falls,ID

Bright sunshine and blue sky when I was ready to leave. Temperature very pleasant, around 65-68 F.

I left Boise in an easterly direction on Route 20/I-84 which follows at times the Oregon Trail, that route taken

by the original settlers when they came to this part of the country. About 40 miles later the I-84 / Route 20

are going different ways. Following the I84 to Idaho Falls would have been quicker but I stuck with the old

Oregon Trail one, the Route 20.

For the miles this road lets you click decently into the Idaho mountains, up onto the plaines. And then for about

140 miles in an almost straight line across the plaines. Who has seen the movie “North by Northwest” in particular

the scene where Cary Grant is waiting in the midst of nowhere and only a crop duster is moving about has an idea

what this landscape is like. Cattle ranches to the left and right, followed later by wheat fields. And, this makes it

spectacular: at the horizon the mountains of the Boise National Park with there snow covered peaks. Add bright 

sunshine, blue sky and the occasional cloud and you have an idea. The first picture gives an impression.

Two little towns, Hill City > population 85 and Carey > population 450 and the occasional farm don’t make one

call this part of Idaho densely populated.

Having passed Carey the landscape changes dramatically. Big, almost black rock formations and fields full of big and small

black coloured rocks appear on both sides of the road. One has reached the “Crater of the Moon National Park and Reserve"

Lava and ash erupted about 1600 - 2300 years ago have created this very unique scenery. The second picture below shows

a little bit.

After another 1 ½ hours drive I reached Idaho Falls, the end of my todays travels.

18.9.2015 Flight San Francisco to Boise, Idaho

An early start was necessary today.

Why ? My flight from San Francisco to Boise was scheduled at 10:00 am. s the SF Airport is

on the other side of the bay, I had return my car, one should be there about an hour before departure 

and last but not least I would hit the rush hour somehow required to leave at 6:30 am 

Everything went fine ( obviously ) and I reached the airport well in time. I even had enough time

for a breakfast in one of the cafes.

The Alaskan Airlines flight left on time. As the flight was not direct so a stop-over in Seattle was 

necessary.  The connection flight, also with Alaskan, was delayed due to the late arrival of the

incoming flight. The way the airline informed the passengers was exemplary:

“The inbound plane is delayed and expected at 14:05” ( instead of 13;20 )

“The airplane has just landed"

‘We are expecting re-fuelling and checks to take about 20 min. Expected departure time now 14:45"

etc. etc.

Other airlines in Europe should use the same approach.

Well on time, i.e. at the new expected departure time, the flight left Seattle for Boise, Idaho.

I also left the Pacific Time Zone and entered the Mountain Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of PTZ. Clocks needed

to be changed.

At around 5 pm I landed in Boise: bright sunshine and an outside temperature of 65 F. Very nice.

With the Boise airport not so big I quickly found my car rental agent who had the papers already ready.

Sign, present credit card and off I went for my tonights accommodation.

17.9.2015 San Francisco ( Last Day )

Also for today the weatherman was spot on: a bit cloudy with the sun occasionally peaking through till about

lunch time but then…. and it’s getting warmer. He forecasts for Saturday/Sunday temperatures in the upper 80th.

Wow, thank God I am leaving tomorrow.

Today I covered the bits and bobs I hadn’t seen over the last two days and revisited a few.

One item on the agenda was the old SF Ferry Building which is used these days only partly for ‘ferry” business

else it is, like most of the old piers, catering for the hungry, pulling money out of the tourists pockets via various

more or less good attractions and last but not least office space. Nevertheless the architecture of this building

is impressing.

Few of the good things are a farmers market, speciality cheese and bread shops, coffee shops which are x-times

better then the (in)famous Starbucks and at lunch time various street kitchens selling very interesting food, both

local as well as international faire. I indulged at lunch time an Porchetta Sandwich, a home baked crusty roll,

with obnoxiously porches, crackling, onion marmalade, curly cress and rosemary sea salt. How it was ? GREAT !

Having done something for my culinary taste buds I jumped on a bus which brought me to the Golden Gate Park

where I popped into the De Young Museum ( Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco ) to visit a special exhibition about

“JMW Turner: Painting Set Free”. Turner being one of my favourite painters.

Now filled both with the mentioned sandwich and art by Turner a more profane thing was next on the agenda: a

leisurely stroll along the bay shoreline to Fisherman’s Wharf to enjoy for a last time the great view towards the Golden

Gate Bridge and Sausalito and the bay in general.

Using the cable car to get over Nob Hill I reached Powell BART Station where I catched my train to Hayward.

Some light packing needs to be done tonight, the alarm set as I am leaving tomorrow morning at 10:00 from San 

Francisco Airport for Boise, Idaho.

16.9.2015 San Francisco

Like yesterday today started as far as the weather was concerned in exactly the same way: sun and blue sky.

What more does one want.

I decided that today is Cable Car Day, at lest part of the day. Being unto an extend an railway, tram and streetcar

enthusiast I thought it more then fitting tot explore this unique transportation system of this city. And that despite the

fact that I have already done this three times in the past i.e. each time I visited this city in the past.

I made a video about one of those car rides but unfortunately the blogging website doesn’t like movies so I was

only able to upload a picture.

But obviously this was not the only thing I did today. On the same subject matter I visited the SF Transportation

Museum and The Presidio.

Again an action filled day which I finished with a nice meal and beer in a local microbrewery in Hayward close to

my motel.

15.9.2015 San Francisco

The plan for an action packed day required to get up a bit earlier then usually.

Peaking out of the window it looked already very promising and when I reached 

the downtown SF Embarcadero Station the sun was out on a blue sky. A lite breeze

and temperatures around 68-70 F made the day very pleasurable.

First item on the agenda was a boat trip on the San Francisco Bay.  In bright sunshine

the ship “steamed” towards the Golden Gate Bridge which appeared in its full glory in

front of us and not like the previous very drizzly day partly hidden behind fog clouds. Opened for

the traffic in 1937, the bridge was  until 1964, the longest suspension bridge main span in the

world, at 4,200 feet (1,300 m). Surely one of the most photographed bridges on the world.

Steaming back alongside Alcatraz the ship also made a brief stop at the SF Cruise Terminal

where two cruise ships anchored. Having sailed on the QM 2 and comparing her with these

two ships I definitely prefer a true ocean liner like the QM 2. Much more majestic !

Walking along the piers I stopped at the Boudin Sourdough Bakery I enjoyed a steamy Clam

Chowder for lunch. Delicious , served in a sourdough bread.

Unfortunately the whole length of the SF piers including Fishermans Wharf have mutated in a

gigantic tourist trap and lost the little old charm which I remember from first visit same 8-9 years

back. Still, like the Boudin Bakery, there is at least another institution one has to visit. At least I

have to: the old Ghirardelli factory. They used to produce chocolate and ice-cream at this place

which houses now one of their shops and various other businesses. The company dates back to around

1840 and belongs since 1998 to the Swiss company Lindt & Sprüngli. Ghirardelli is the only US

chocolate maker who controls the whole process from roasting of the beans to the end product. 

And that is what one can really tast !! Hershey’s is …….. ( excuse my language ).

After the Clam Chowder a nice ice-cream was a must, sitting on the stairs in front of the building and indulging

the ice-cream and the view.

With now new gained strength a used the cable station close by and was pulled over the hill the Mason/Market

Street, did a bit of window shopping to catch later, somewhat exhausts, a BART train to Hayward.

Lets see what there is in store for tomorrow.

 

14.9.2015 Rohnert Park, CA to Hayward ( San Francisco ),CA

Dull day, at least thats how the day started.

Driving is only for a relatively short distance today so that I decided to avoid as much as possible 

the highway system in and around St.Monica/San Francisco to the extend possible.

I started in an westerly, coastal, direction via the Route 101 ( again ) to Petaluma. A small city

with a nice Main Street where imposing old bank building from the early 19th century have been

converted into shops. In one case into a “Seed Bank” ( one can buy seeds for plants in this establishment )

or a “Vintage Bank”, a shop selling antiques and bric-brac. Unique ideas !

Leaving the 101 I drove a little byway towards Nicasio, a small, no, no city, rather a hamlet at the Nicasio

reservoir. Almost empty ! Rain is definitely needed whereby the light drizzle I had since leaving Rohnert

Park doesn’t help at all. BTW: the huge forest fires in the news are mentioning the greater San Francisco

area. Depending how ones defines greater area but the fires are about 110 miles north of San Francisco !

Leaving Nicosia behind me rather quickly the puzzle and puzzle of the San Francisco area highway system caught 

up with me and after week long driving on small roads huge highways with three to four lanes and irretating

spaghetti junctions took over. Despite these irritations I managed to find ( thanks to my trusted GPS lady ) the

Interstate leading to the Golden Gate Bridge. Before crossing the bridge I took a little detour via Sausalito,

a charming but expensive little town. In the meantime it had starting clearing up and from the ferry landing one

could see the SF skyline, still a bit clouded but visible.

Having crossed the bridge I followed the highways towards San Mateo where I had the cross the San Francisco Bay

to my final destination Hayward where I had booked accommodation for the next few days. SF is to expensive and 

is considerably cheaper in Hayward which is nicely connected via the BART ( Bay Area Rapid Transit ) trains to SF

downtown.

Weather forecast for the next couple of days: sunny with temperatures around 65-69 F. Ideal for sightseeing.

13.9.2015 Fort Bragg, CA to Rohnert Park,CA

Warm but coastal fog. Seems to be typical for this time of the year. But even if the mornings

start like this usually during the late morning it starts clearing up and the sun comes out. Tis was

exactly what happened ( again ) today.

Leaving Fort Bragg on Route 1 in a southern direction the route very quickly runs almost in parallel

to the shore line. The first little town I reached was Mendocino. Small, colourful houses, surrounded by

nice gardens. Great little shops and, very important, no chain restaurants. In short: picturesque. Maybe

that was the reason several movies have been shot here. Amongst many “Murder She Wrote” with Angela

Lansbury.

Passing Manchester ( yes, a little hamlet on the coast ) I reached Point Arena with its lighthouse. Spectacular

coastline, rough and not as green as in Oregon. Being in California is somehow visible.

A few miles after the little town of Point Arena route 1 gets spectacular. In many bends and curves ( some in an

almost 90 degree angle ) the rounds climbs  steeply up and down the coastal mountains. It is very interesting

to see the many cyclists ( with luggage ! ) peddling very hard to get to the top and then hitting the breaks when

it gets downhill as otherwise they would fall down the cliiffs.

St.Orres, an old russian orthodox church, which has been build by Russian traders in the 18th century who lived

here as fur traders, the little assembly of houses called Jenner is reached where I have to leave the coastal

highway. A last stop to have a last view on the Pacific and its coast line and I have to head in an easterly direction

for Rohnert Park, my final stop for today.

The little country road follows the Russia River and after a few miles vineyards are appearing Many vineries 

are promoting tasting and buying opportunities but being a cautious driver I did not stop and sample.

Drink driving laws are very strict over here !

Since point Arena the weather had changed. The further south the warmer it got. From 65 - 68 F to 74- 78 F

Having reached Rohner Pary and tonights accommodation I had to switch on the AC as the room was hot.

 

 

12.9.2015 Eureka, CA to Fort Bragg,CA

A gigantic day !

In the real sense of the word but let me report one thing after the other.

On my way out of Eureka this morning I stopped in downtown to explore the old part of the city.

And yes, it really has an old part. Lovely old, italian influenced buildings, obviously all in wood to 

use the local building material which is present in abundance. Two-three floors at the most alone the

proverbial High Street which is called here Main Street. I was very lucky as the Main Street was closed

due to local fund raiser event fr a charity displaying lots of old cars, lovingly polished up and all still 

running.

Next stop on my travel south was of the famous Route 101. Ferndale, a couple of miles to the west from

the highway. Also with a lovely Main Street, according to the turbo all Victorian. The little town was heaving

with people. Reason: every other house had a “garage sale” going on and shoppers criss-crossed the road

which made traffic very slow. Finally I found a parking spot and was able to roam around and explore this really

lovely little town. A picture below shows one of the many old houses.

After exploring american little town the next was really gigantic: the “Avenue Of The Giants”, a small road

was runs through the Humboldt Redwoods State Park. The “Giants” are really gigantic: the Redwood and

Sequoia Trees. The park contains one of the last remaining old-growth forests of the world and encompasses

in total 53’000 acres, of which 17’000 acres are old-growth.It is home to the 4th-tallest measured living redwood,

the Stratosphere Giant, which was measured at 112.94 metres (370.5 ft) in 2004. The tallest redwood ever

measured was the Dyerville Giant, also in Humboldt Redwoods State Park. It was 113.4 metres (372 ft)

high when it fell in March 1991. It was estimated to be 1,600 years old.

The “Avenue” meanders through the forest with these giants on both sides. A fantastic experience which makes

one realise ( again ) what nature is capable of doing.

Leaving the Park I left after a couple of miles Route 101 and turned onto Road 1, heading to Fort Bragg.  Route

1 is dual track road which climbs in tight corners onto the coastal mountains before going down, again in tight corners.

Having reached the bottom route 1 goes along the shore line and one a clear day one has fantastic views

on the rough edged coast with sandy beaches. Unfortunately I wasn’t that lucky as the already mentioned fog prohbited

a good view.

After this “gigantic” day I reached Fort Bragg, my stop-over. According to my turbo a local legend, Cowlick’s Ice Cream Cafe

needs to be tried. YES there ice-cream is good: Blackforest and Pecan. Mmmmm….

 

11.9.2015 Coos Bay,OR to Eureka, CA

Today can be described as cliffs & sea and Redwood forests.

Weatherise it was also very interesting: basically it was very warm and the sun was out but at places hidden behind

fog ( or shall I say mist ). Fog ( mist ) seems to be very typical for the Pacific coastline. Thanks to Google I found this

explanation: The Pacific Ocean stays pretty cold up here -- around 55 degrees -- in the summertime, which keeps the air

right near the water cooler than over land. As the warm sun shines on the ocean, water will evaporate, and then quickly

condense amid the cool air and form a low overcast or fog bank. The fog will drift inland just a bit since the immediate

coastline also stays cool from the nearby ocean.

These fog banks are only at places, sometimes for about a mile and then blue sky and sunshine.

But enough wisdom.

Today I am just uploading two pictures. They should speak of themselves.

 

10.9.2015 Beaches and Dunes day

Today I can safely describe as the beaches and dunes day.

Staying for one day in Coos Bay before heading further south today was supposed

to be a more or less car free day. Wishful thinking. The ranger in Oregon Dunes State Park Station

whom I visited yesterday made a couple of suggestions but as they are all a “few” miles apart I had

to drive, but I didn’t regret a single mile. From Florence to Coos Bay this State Park extends for 40 miles

along the Oregon coast. Formed by he ancient forces of wind, water and time, these dunes are like

no others in the world. These are the largest expanse of coastal sand dunes in North America.

I am just attaching two picture and let them speak for themselves because quite honestly I am a lost for

words to describe what I have experienced today.

Tonight will be my last night in Coos Bay as I am continuing tomorrow my travel further south.

Watch this space !

9.9.2015 Newport to Coos Bay

The days seem to start all  a bit foggy and only later during the morning the fog lifts and bright sunshine

is blessing us. Why the fog ? Humidity created by the ocean over the warm landmass.

With this in mind I started my day by going north first as I wanted the visit the Yaquina Head State Park

with its lighthouse first. Avery rough stretch of coastline with sharp cliffs falling into the sea and forests on top.

The lighthouse, in operation since 1873, was just emerging out of the fog which gave the whole scene very interesting

ambience. The Oregon Park Service offers guided tours and allows the climb the the stairs up to the light.

Impressive especially if one hears that originally there was no street to Yaquina Head and all the building material

was brought by ship and then carried stone by stone up the cliffs. The lighthouse is still in operation but is since 1966

automated.

Now I headed back, in a southern direction again. If I consider yesterdays impressions as the “appetiser” then today was

surely a main course ( at least one of many ). The costal road, the 101, meanders along the coastline, goes up and down

and one wants to stop and look after every bend and curve. I can’t count how often I used today the words: wow, aah or

ohhh. I can only say: the scenery is simply breathtaking. Milling beaches or cliffs and the mountains literally cascading

into the sea.

Almost towards the end of todays travel the route reaches the “Oregon Dunes”. 5-15 m high sand dunes which at the town 

Florence stop just at the car park of the local supermarket.

Also today the GPS system calculated 2 ½ hours for the journey but it took me more then double the time not included

the time at the lighthouse. One has to enjoy every view !

I reached Coos Bay, where I am going to stay for two nights, at around 5:30 p.m. This quite sizeable town was one of the

main lumber towns with numerous saw-mills operating. These days lumber is still the top thing but almost all of the

mills have closed down. One of them was covered into a Casino (“ The Mill Casino “), run by the native Coquille Indian tribe.

Shall I try my luck tomorrow evening ? Let’s see.

8.9.2015 Drive Portland to Newport (ON) -Picture 2-

8.9.2015 Drive Portland to Newport (ON) -Picture 1-

8.9.2015 Drive Portland to Newport ( ON )

The weatherman proofed to be spot on for today: sun and warm. 76-78 F in Portland and in the costal region around 

65-68 F. Ideal !

I left the Portland region on Route 26 in an north-westerly direction towards Seaside ( name of a town ) where the

26 meets Route 101,the Pacific Coast Highway. Slowly the route climbed up into the Cascade mountain region

where it also morphed into a 2-line highway going upto a hight of 1500 feet. Thick forests on both sides of the

route explain the still visible logging industry. Having reached the summit the forests “cascade” into the Pacific Coast

and as I learned later during the day fall  literally into the ocean. Having reached seaside I had to stop and walk the short

way to the beach. Mile long sandy beaches and dunes, unfortunately in case of Seaside with not very nice looking condos

along the beach. 

I could now describe the roughly 145 mile long drive com Seaside to Newport, where I booked my motel for the night,

in detail but that would simply take to long. Only this: the route is breathtaking: forests, mountains which one has to cross,

mile long sandy beaches, hidden caves and bays. The two pictures scratch only on the surface but uploading all I took

is simply not possible.

All in all it took me about 5 hours instead of the by my GPS calculated 3 hours to reach Newport, the end point of today’s

journey.

And don’t forget: to get a more visual idea of my journey head to: https://trackmytour.com/ICFvw

7.9.2015 Portland, Oregon

The weatherman kept his promise: warm, around 69-72 F, sunny, blue sky , just the right conditions to explore

Portland in a bit more detail. Thanks to a public holiday ( Labour Day ) traffic was minimal nevertheless many

people out and about.

Portland really is a warkablecity and a very green one as well. Lots of trees and flower arrangements make

this a very nice city indeed.

First I headed to Pioneer Courthouse Square, the “living room” of Portland, right in the centre of the town. A huge

square, lined with trees  and the oldest public building on the west-coast: the court house. Interestingly there are hardly

any big buildings in town. Only two and they are both banks: Wells Fargo and Bank West. All other buildings are 10-15

floors at most, mainly only 3-5 floors. The city is also very keen to keep its heritage and seems to spend a lot of

afford in retaining the old buildings by making them useful in other then their original designed way. A great city

to explore on foot, tram and train.

I bought a ticket for one of those hop-on/ hop-off tours to see as much as possible and concentrated afterwards on the

few things I wanted to look at a bit closer.

One of those places was the Chinese Garden but before I did that I had some lunch at one of those street kitchens and

treated myself to an “Philly Cheesecake”. No, this is not something sweet, actually is rather spicy:

Thin sliced Sirloin steak grilled with onions, ball peppers and mushrooms, finished with white american cheese and served

on a soft hoagie roll. A bit messy to eat but great !

O.K., now the Chinese Gardens. An oasis of peace and tranquility right in the city, completed in 2000. Portland's

Chinese sister city, Suzhou, is famous for its beautiful gardens. Most of the building material, including 500 tons of

rock came from China and 65 artisans from Suzhou lived in Portland for 10 month while creating the garden. The garden 

features more then 300 plant species and cultivars found in Chinese Gardens.

6.9.2015 Portland, Oregon

As the previous nights sleep wasn’t so good ( train ride ! ) last nights sleep was great: slept like a log.

When I peeked out of the window this morning: rainy, dull, overcast.

To make the best out of this I used the fantastic public transport system Portland has and explored the

city out of the convenience of a tram.

 Portland, also nicknamed “Rose City”, is notable ( according to Wikipedia ) for its land-use planning and

investment in public transport. Portland is frequently recognized as one of the most environmentally

conscious or "green" cities in the world because of its high walkability,something I can now confirm.

Interestingly it is also home to the most total breweries and independent microbreweries of any city in the

world, with 58 breweries within the city limits. One of them is on my evening agenda (http://www.deschutesbrewery.com)

conveniently located close to a tram stop !

Crisscrossing the city in the tram I made up my plan for tomorrow ( Monday ). Out of the tram I already

noticed that in the downtown district many of the old buildings have survived and are lovingly maintained.

Something I will need to explore tomorrow in more detail as well.

5.9.2015 Beaverton ( Portland ) arrival

Despite the very comfortable coach class seats, reclinable and with foot rest ( I didn’t want to spend

extra money for a sleeper compartment for this “short” train ride, I didn’t sleep a lot on this journey

from Whitefish to Portland.

At around 2:00 am the train stopped as scheduled in Spokane, WA, for a longer stop. Reason: the train is been split.

The front part continues to Seattle and the rear part to Portland, OR, my destination. Some passengers, me being

one f them, used the stop to get some fresh air.

“All aboard” was at 2:35 am and I continued my travel towards Portland.

Next to me was a charming elderly lady and very soon after we took of in Whitefish we started chatting. Oregon

born but currently living near Chicago she was a great narrator about many things on this journey.

It’s so easy to get to know people over here and they all  tell you everything about their private live which is at

times a bit to much to put it mildly.

As the Portland train didn’t have a dining car breakfast consisted of an Amtrak coffee and two cereal bars.

Great !

The train line meandered alongside the Columbia River with views again stunning.

Almost on time ( 10:10 am ) the train pulled into Portland station and when I stepped on the platform I had travelled,

 the whole length of the “Empire Builder” line: 2250 m.

Now I have two days in Portland in front of me but first of all I had to get my bags and find the way to the Hertz Car

rental office. A sign told me their Amtrak Station office isn’t anymore but one should call a number and they will pick you

up and drive you to their main office in downtown Portland. Everything worked fine and some time later my bags have

been in my car which I will now have until I return it in San Francisco airport.

Thanks to GPS I found my Motel in Beaverton, a Portland suburb, easily. As room check-in wasn’t until 1 pm I explored

the close neighbourhood, especially the Beaverton Transit Centre which is just around the corner. Portland has a

fantastic public transport system with trams, trains and buses closely connected. I will use this during my Portland

stay.

 

4.9.2015 Leaving Whitefish/Kalispell for Portland, ON

My last day in the Glacier Park district and the day started warm and sunny.

As my train was scheduled to leave Whitefish Amtrak Station at 9:16 pm I had plenty

of time to spend this day useful.

First item on my task list was obviously packing and checking out of my motel in Kalispell.

As I didn’t buy anything I thought packing would be a doddle but as Amtrak has weight

restrictions of not more then 50 lb per bag I had to split my belongings carefully between

the two bags I am travelling with.

“Completely exhausted” from this tedious task I headed for breakfast in Whitefish to be close

to the train station as I wanted to check my bags in afterwards.  

I noticed that the Whitefish Museum which is based in the train station was open this morning

so a visit at least on my last day was more then appropriate. Interesting collection of memorabilia

of the towns history. Whitefish started originally as a logging town and much later as a little ski resort

and a gateway into the National Park after the road through the park was finished in 1932.

With all of this done I headead for the town beach of Whitefish Lake to enjoy the splendid scenery:

mountains, blue sky and just a few clouds. Picture postcard scenery !

With the beautifull things done I killed the remaining time visiting the local Home Depot and Walmart store

just to be confirmed, again, that over here everything is XXL

After a nice very late lunch and having filled up the car with gas I made my way to the station to return my

car and then wait for my departure. The waiting room filled up quickly and it was interesting to see that trains

as a method of transport have not yet completely gone out of fashion. One of the reasons was for sure the

Labour Day weekend as Monday is a holiday in the States.

The train, scheduled for arrival at 8:56 pm was delayed by 30min and finally pulled into Whitefish at 9:35 pm

so that we left at almost 10 pm.

 

 

3.9.2015 Kalispell Flathead Lake

Weather forecast for today: Rain till the afternoon then some sunny spells

Correct ? Yes it turned out to be correct but it didn’t look like it in the morning.

Nevertheless I decided after a frugal breakfast at the local Starbucks ( not so bad after all )

to make a tour around Flathead Lake, south of Kalispell. I was intrigued because the map

mentioned an Indian Reservation.

Of I went heading south alongside this huge lake surrounded by mountains Low clouds covering the

summits and light rain but still beautiful to experience. Everything is so huge over here and even a

few picture can’t capture it all. One needs to experience this oneself.

Having driven for more then 1 hours the sign “Entering Flathead Indian Reservation” turned up.

One has to look very close to find some differences between the Indian land and the “outside world”. 

Only a few houses are in good shape, old cars rusting away nearby in numbers and other signs of neglect.

At the southernmost point of the lake, in Polson, I made a u-turn and made my way the lake on the opposite side.

Here the difference between reservation and “outside world” was even more dramatic. Immediately after the

sign that one leaves the reservation fruit orchards started. Cherries, Peaches, Apples and Pears are grown here.

For about 18 m the orchards lined up like pearls on a string. Everyone with a little hut at the roadside where dearing

the picking season the fruits are sold. At this time of the year there was nothing to be sold anymore.

Having reached Kalispell the light rain stopped, the clouds broke up and the sun came out.

To celebrate another great day I treated myself to some ice-cream at “Coldstone”, an ice-cream parlour my 

cousin introduced me to. Double chocolate with toppings at your choice. I selected raspberries, which they mix under the

ice-cream and roasted hazelnuts on top. HEAVEN !

2.9.2015 Glacier National Park

Weather forecast wasn’t good for today: sunny spells and rain.

Whilst having breakfast, a bit a late one because of the forecast, it started clearing up and I decided

to make the most of my 7-Day Entry Pass for the Park: driving the through the park across the whole

length. Not a long drive in miles ( approx. 40 m ) but after a certain point the road is getting very narrow

and very bendy: a mountain road !

But it was very much worth it. At almost every turnout I stopped to enjoy, indulge and appreciate the

fantastic views and that despite the sometimes very overcast sky.

I left nothing like footprints and took nothing like picture ! 

On top of Logan Pass high winds with speeds of 60-70 mph made walking a bit tricky. 

Instead of going back to the western entrance of the park I decided to drive down the eastern part of the road

to find out how it looks on this side of the mountains. Equally stunning but also very sad because of impact of

the recent forest-fires.  One could still smell the burn and at places it was still smoky.

The Park Service had opened the road only a few days ago but was directing the traffic in convoys with a 

pilot car through these still somewhat fire impacted areas. It was interesting to see how quickly nature adapts

as certain grass was already green and stuck out like little icons of hope in this blacked landscape.

At St.Mary’s Lake wonderful views of some of the still existing glaciers ( for how much longer ? The Park

Service estimates that by 2030 they are all gone ! ).

Having left the park I took a little country road ( "Looking Glass Road” according to the park map ) alongside the border

of the park which brought me back to Kalispell my base.

After such an eventful day I thought that a bit more for the soul was necessary: cinema.

I was ( again ) lucky as today a new movie “ A Walk in the Woods” ( how appropriate ! ) started showing starring

Robert Redford, Nick Nolte and Emma Thompson. BTW: A story by Bill Bryson.

Very funny ! Highly recommended.

 

1.9.2015 Glacier National Park

The weather forecast for today proofed to be right: SUN, Blue sky and temperatures in the upper 70th.

But let me start at the beginning.

As I wanted to be before the crowds in the park I had set yesterday evening my alarm for 6:00 am.

Having showered and got my things together I left for the Park, a 35 m long drive. In West Glacier, the

entry point to the park, I had a nice breakfast and then I was off.

At the ranger station I paid my dues ( $ 25 for a 7-day entry ticket ) and drove to the Visitors Centre where

I learned that the park service is offering a free hop-on-hop-on shuttle bus service through the park to Logan

Pass. Perfect !

Somebody is driving, you can look out of the window and enjoy the scenery.

Being lucky there was a bus about the leave, I hopped on and of we went.

The first part along Lake McDonald was by a big coach and we had to change at Avalanche Creek into a

much smaller, 10-seater bus, as the rest of the tour is via a narrow road all the way up to Logan Pass.

A stunning ride with views which are simply spectacular but at times also sad as the scars of the August 2003

forest fires can still be seen. Even these days there are forest fires but fortunately on the eastern side.

The Ranger on our bus explained that until a few days ago one couldn’t see the top of the mountains. 

Why ? Smoke. At one point a little village on the eastern side, Saint Mary, had to be evacuated.

Having reached the Logan Pass I had to get off the bus. Logan Pass, 2025 m high, is also the continental divide.

The visitors centre is displaying two flags: the US and the Canadian one as the northern part of the park is

already in Canada. 

I explored the pass summit via a little hiking trail to get some impressions and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Despite the fact that the school holidays are already over in the US quite a few people did exactly why I did:

Wow's and Ahh's when looking around !

Having spend more then an hour I made my way back the bus stop. The friendly driver, all the Park Rangers

are friendly, explained on our way back that during the winter month ( starting at around the end of October )

all the security features of the road are been dismantled and the road closed. Snow up-to an hight between 

80 - 200 inch make the road not passable, not to mention the various avalanches.

This year the road was opened just in time for Independence Day ( July 4th ).

On my way down I stopped at the McDonald Lodge to visit this fantastic wooden mountain lodge directly situated

at the lake. The main entrance is on the lake side because the road was build years later and initially all guest

arrived by boat. The view of the lodge’s rooms is stunning: the lake in the front and as the back drop the mountains.

“A Room with a View” !

Another stop was at Apgar Village at the end of the lake which used to have until 1958 it’s own school house, now

a gift shop. The old school bell is still in front of the entrance.

A last little walk the lake’s beach to enjoy the lake in sun and the mountains in the back and the next bus

drove to the information centre where my car was waiting.

A fantastic day !

31.8.2018 Whitefish, MT and Kalispell,MT

After a good nights sleep ( I slept like a log ) and after all my morning chores been done

I headed down Highway 93 towards Whitefish. Passing through the old part of Kalispell,

I lovely small town with buildings not higher then two floors and the church steeples the

highest buildings in town, I stopped at the "Wheat Montana Bakery” to have breakfast.

Real made bread, rolls and cakes and not factory made stuff. A delight.

Having gained new strength I headed further north into Whitefish to see the railway station

by daylight. Situated at the end of the towns high street the lovely timber-style building is

a delight to look at. According to the tour book the nicest on the whole railway line.

Whitefish is like Kalispell a typical, if not stereotypical american midwestern town which

tries very good to keep its old charm.

BTW: both town are proud of their very own micro-breweries. Something which needs to

be tried whilst here.

Just a few miles further north Whitefish Lake needed to be explored. Surrounded by dark

and deep forest the lake is an eldorado for fishing, boating and swimming not to mention

walking. 

A good coffee was available in the "MontanaMountain Coffee” before I headed to the

National Parks Information Centre to get more detailed information. It turned out that all the

roads through the park are open again including the “Going-To-The-Sun-Drive”. The ranger

recommended an early start to catch at West Glacier Park Station one of the parks free coaches.

I’ll took his advice as this way I don’t have to drive myself and can fully concentrate of the scenery.

Weather forecast for tomorrow is good: sunny and warm with temperatures around 71-75 F.

All set for tomorrow then !

30.8.2015 On my way to Whitefish

Despite the movements of the train I somehow managed to sleep but woke up

quite early at around 6:00. Morning hasn’t broken yet so a little lay-in was more

then appropriate.  

Peaking a little later through the curtains the first small rays of sunshine tried to

break through the clouds. After a shower and some steps into the dining car

where breakfast was already served.

Overnight the train passed through Minnesota into North Dakota. Wide plains with

farms and sparsely populated.Passing through ND we reached the Missouri River

and followed this at this point small river for a while and entered into Montana.

Clocks had to be switched back by another hour. Mountain Time!

Huge cattle farms could be seen on both sides of the train track. 

The Empire Builder doesn’t have many stops, most of them just for a two-three

minutes to let passenger get on board or detrain ( as they say in this part of the world ).

Finally we reached the beginnings of the Montana Mountains and train started slowly to gain

altitude. East Glacier Park Station was reached and boarding passengers told us about

the fires in the park and that a few days ago the train was delayed by up-to 14 hours.

Travelling slowly into the mountains one could occasionally still see smoke lingering over

the trees. Fortunately it had rained the previous night so that the Park Rangers had opened

the roads again for the public. Let’s see how things develop.

We reached the top altitude after sun-set and made our way to West Park Glacier Station 

and onwards to Whitefish in the dark.

Finally the train reached Whitefish with about 15 min delay.

Considering the travelled distance from Chicago of 1626 miles almost on time.

Luggage was unloaded very quickly and my car rental agent had all the papers ready so

that I could set off quickly for my motel.

After last nights moving sleeping experience I will sleep like a log !

 

29.8.2015 Train journey Chicago - Whitefish ( Montana )

Having arrived at Union Station I made may way directly to the Amtrak check-in counter

to get rid of my luggage.  I will see it again at the end of my journey in Whitefish.

As there was still plenty of time till departure I explored Union Station. A great building

with a imposing waiting hall but unfortunately I shadow of its former train glory. These days

the old hall is hardly used but new facilities are used instead. This used to be the main US

railway hub as almost all train lines began or ended here. A great shame.

Anyway. The time till departure passed and at about 40 min before departure my train was

called for embarkation: "Train 7/27 The Empire Builder”, consisting of two parts: the 7 to Seattle

and the 27 to Portland. Both on track 19.

My coach, no. 730, almost at the head of the train, just behind the dining car. Convenient !

My rosette situated on the first floor of the double-decker coaches was found quickly and my few items

unpacked.

On time we left Chicago and the conductor came to check the ticket followed by the dining car

steward for the dinner seating.

The train made his way first to the north . Several stops for picking up passengers and we reached Milwaukee

where the train headed into an north-westerly direction toward St.Paul-Minneapolis.

At 6:45 pm my seating was called for dinner. People are seated on an community basis, meaning the steward

places people upon arrival to get full four seated tables. A very social way and the people are all very communatiive

and very quickly lively discussions are starting.

Dinner is a la carte and three course. A nice glass of Pinot Grigio accompanied my salmon followed by strawberry

cheesecake and a good cup of coffee.

In the twilight we reached LaCrosse from where on the train followed for quite some time the Mississippi 

before reaching at around 9:50 pm St.Paul-Minneapolis. 20 minute stop, enough time to stretch my legs on the

platform and go to bed after boarding.

Good night !

My train itinary