3.9.2015 Kalispell Flathead Lake

Weather forecast for today: Rain till the afternoon then some sunny spells

Correct ? Yes it turned out to be correct but it didn’t look like it in the morning.

Nevertheless I decided after a frugal breakfast at the local Starbucks ( not so bad after all )

to make a tour around Flathead Lake, south of Kalispell. I was intrigued because the map

mentioned an Indian Reservation.

Of I went heading south alongside this huge lake surrounded by mountains Low clouds covering the

summits and light rain but still beautiful to experience. Everything is so huge over here and even a

few picture can’t capture it all. One needs to experience this oneself.

Having driven for more then 1 hours the sign “Entering Flathead Indian Reservation” turned up.

One has to look very close to find some differences between the Indian land and the “outside world”. 

Only a few houses are in good shape, old cars rusting away nearby in numbers and other signs of neglect.

At the southernmost point of the lake, in Polson, I made a u-turn and made my way the lake on the opposite side.

Here the difference between reservation and “outside world” was even more dramatic. Immediately after the

sign that one leaves the reservation fruit orchards started. Cherries, Peaches, Apples and Pears are grown here.

For about 18 m the orchards lined up like pearls on a string. Everyone with a little hut at the roadside where dearing

the picking season the fruits are sold. At this time of the year there was nothing to be sold anymore.

Having reached Kalispell the light rain stopped, the clouds broke up and the sun came out.

To celebrate another great day I treated myself to some ice-cream at “Coldstone”, an ice-cream parlour my 

cousin introduced me to. Double chocolate with toppings at your choice. I selected raspberries, which they mix under the

ice-cream and roasted hazelnuts on top. HEAVEN !

2.9.2015 Glacier National Park

Weather forecast wasn’t good for today: sunny spells and rain.

Whilst having breakfast, a bit a late one because of the forecast, it started clearing up and I decided

to make the most of my 7-Day Entry Pass for the Park: driving the through the park across the whole

length. Not a long drive in miles ( approx. 40 m ) but after a certain point the road is getting very narrow

and very bendy: a mountain road !

But it was very much worth it. At almost every turnout I stopped to enjoy, indulge and appreciate the

fantastic views and that despite the sometimes very overcast sky.

I left nothing like footprints and took nothing like picture ! 

On top of Logan Pass high winds with speeds of 60-70 mph made walking a bit tricky. 

Instead of going back to the western entrance of the park I decided to drive down the eastern part of the road

to find out how it looks on this side of the mountains. Equally stunning but also very sad because of impact of

the recent forest-fires.  One could still smell the burn and at places it was still smoky.

The Park Service had opened the road only a few days ago but was directing the traffic in convoys with a 

pilot car through these still somewhat fire impacted areas. It was interesting to see how quickly nature adapts

as certain grass was already green and stuck out like little icons of hope in this blacked landscape.

At St.Mary’s Lake wonderful views of some of the still existing glaciers ( for how much longer ? The Park

Service estimates that by 2030 they are all gone ! ).

Having left the park I took a little country road ( "Looking Glass Road” according to the park map ) alongside the border

of the park which brought me back to Kalispell my base.

After such an eventful day I thought that a bit more for the soul was necessary: cinema.

I was ( again ) lucky as today a new movie “ A Walk in the Woods” ( how appropriate ! ) started showing starring

Robert Redford, Nick Nolte and Emma Thompson. BTW: A story by Bill Bryson.

Very funny ! Highly recommended.

 

1.9.2015 Glacier National Park

The weather forecast for today proofed to be right: SUN, Blue sky and temperatures in the upper 70th.

But let me start at the beginning.

As I wanted to be before the crowds in the park I had set yesterday evening my alarm for 6:00 am.

Having showered and got my things together I left for the Park, a 35 m long drive. In West Glacier, the

entry point to the park, I had a nice breakfast and then I was off.

At the ranger station I paid my dues ( $ 25 for a 7-day entry ticket ) and drove to the Visitors Centre where

I learned that the park service is offering a free hop-on-hop-on shuttle bus service through the park to Logan

Pass. Perfect !

Somebody is driving, you can look out of the window and enjoy the scenery.

Being lucky there was a bus about the leave, I hopped on and of we went.

The first part along Lake McDonald was by a big coach and we had to change at Avalanche Creek into a

much smaller, 10-seater bus, as the rest of the tour is via a narrow road all the way up to Logan Pass.

A stunning ride with views which are simply spectacular but at times also sad as the scars of the August 2003

forest fires can still be seen. Even these days there are forest fires but fortunately on the eastern side.

The Ranger on our bus explained that until a few days ago one couldn’t see the top of the mountains. 

Why ? Smoke. At one point a little village on the eastern side, Saint Mary, had to be evacuated.

Having reached the Logan Pass I had to get off the bus. Logan Pass, 2025 m high, is also the continental divide.

The visitors centre is displaying two flags: the US and the Canadian one as the northern part of the park is

already in Canada. 

I explored the pass summit via a little hiking trail to get some impressions and enjoy the stunning scenery.

Despite the fact that the school holidays are already over in the US quite a few people did exactly why I did:

Wow's and Ahh's when looking around !

Having spend more then an hour I made my way back the bus stop. The friendly driver, all the Park Rangers

are friendly, explained on our way back that during the winter month ( starting at around the end of October )

all the security features of the road are been dismantled and the road closed. Snow up-to an hight between 

80 - 200 inch make the road not passable, not to mention the various avalanches.

This year the road was opened just in time for Independence Day ( July 4th ).

On my way down I stopped at the McDonald Lodge to visit this fantastic wooden mountain lodge directly situated

at the lake. The main entrance is on the lake side because the road was build years later and initially all guest

arrived by boat. The view of the lodge’s rooms is stunning: the lake in the front and as the back drop the mountains.

“A Room with a View” !

Another stop was at Apgar Village at the end of the lake which used to have until 1958 it’s own school house, now

a gift shop. The old school bell is still in front of the entrance.

A last little walk the lake’s beach to enjoy the lake in sun and the mountains in the back and the next bus

drove to the information centre where my car was waiting.

A fantastic day !

31.8.2018 Whitefish, MT and Kalispell,MT

After a good nights sleep ( I slept like a log ) and after all my morning chores been done

I headed down Highway 93 towards Whitefish. Passing through the old part of Kalispell,

I lovely small town with buildings not higher then two floors and the church steeples the

highest buildings in town, I stopped at the "Wheat Montana Bakery” to have breakfast.

Real made bread, rolls and cakes and not factory made stuff. A delight.

Having gained new strength I headed further north into Whitefish to see the railway station

by daylight. Situated at the end of the towns high street the lovely timber-style building is

a delight to look at. According to the tour book the nicest on the whole railway line.

Whitefish is like Kalispell a typical, if not stereotypical american midwestern town which

tries very good to keep its old charm.

BTW: both town are proud of their very own micro-breweries. Something which needs to

be tried whilst here.

Just a few miles further north Whitefish Lake needed to be explored. Surrounded by dark

and deep forest the lake is an eldorado for fishing, boating and swimming not to mention

walking. 

A good coffee was available in the "MontanaMountain Coffee” before I headed to the

National Parks Information Centre to get more detailed information. It turned out that all the

roads through the park are open again including the “Going-To-The-Sun-Drive”. The ranger

recommended an early start to catch at West Glacier Park Station one of the parks free coaches.

I’ll took his advice as this way I don’t have to drive myself and can fully concentrate of the scenery.

Weather forecast for tomorrow is good: sunny and warm with temperatures around 71-75 F.

All set for tomorrow then !

30.8.2015 On my way to Whitefish

Despite the movements of the train I somehow managed to sleep but woke up

quite early at around 6:00. Morning hasn’t broken yet so a little lay-in was more

then appropriate.  

Peaking a little later through the curtains the first small rays of sunshine tried to

break through the clouds. After a shower and some steps into the dining car

where breakfast was already served.

Overnight the train passed through Minnesota into North Dakota. Wide plains with

farms and sparsely populated.Passing through ND we reached the Missouri River

and followed this at this point small river for a while and entered into Montana.

Clocks had to be switched back by another hour. Mountain Time!

Huge cattle farms could be seen on both sides of the train track. 

The Empire Builder doesn’t have many stops, most of them just for a two-three

minutes to let passenger get on board or detrain ( as they say in this part of the world ).

Finally we reached the beginnings of the Montana Mountains and train started slowly to gain

altitude. East Glacier Park Station was reached and boarding passengers told us about

the fires in the park and that a few days ago the train was delayed by up-to 14 hours.

Travelling slowly into the mountains one could occasionally still see smoke lingering over

the trees. Fortunately it had rained the previous night so that the Park Rangers had opened

the roads again for the public. Let’s see how things develop.

We reached the top altitude after sun-set and made our way to West Park Glacier Station 

and onwards to Whitefish in the dark.

Finally the train reached Whitefish with about 15 min delay.

Considering the travelled distance from Chicago of 1626 miles almost on time.

Luggage was unloaded very quickly and my car rental agent had all the papers ready so

that I could set off quickly for my motel.

After last nights moving sleeping experience I will sleep like a log !

 

29.8.2015 Train journey Chicago - Whitefish ( Montana )

Having arrived at Union Station I made may way directly to the Amtrak check-in counter

to get rid of my luggage.  I will see it again at the end of my journey in Whitefish.

As there was still plenty of time till departure I explored Union Station. A great building

with a imposing waiting hall but unfortunately I shadow of its former train glory. These days

the old hall is hardly used but new facilities are used instead. This used to be the main US

railway hub as almost all train lines began or ended here. A great shame.

Anyway. The time till departure passed and at about 40 min before departure my train was

called for embarkation: "Train 7/27 The Empire Builder”, consisting of two parts: the 7 to Seattle

and the 27 to Portland. Both on track 19.

My coach, no. 730, almost at the head of the train, just behind the dining car. Convenient !

My rosette situated on the first floor of the double-decker coaches was found quickly and my few items

unpacked.

On time we left Chicago and the conductor came to check the ticket followed by the dining car

steward for the dinner seating.

The train made his way first to the north . Several stops for picking up passengers and we reached Milwaukee

where the train headed into an north-westerly direction toward St.Paul-Minneapolis.

At 6:45 pm my seating was called for dinner. People are seated on an community basis, meaning the steward

places people upon arrival to get full four seated tables. A very social way and the people are all very communatiive

and very quickly lively discussions are starting.

Dinner is a la carte and three course. A nice glass of Pinot Grigio accompanied my salmon followed by strawberry

cheesecake and a good cup of coffee.

In the twilight we reached LaCrosse from where on the train followed for quite some time the Mississippi 

before reaching at around 9:50 pm St.Paul-Minneapolis. 20 minute stop, enough time to stretch my legs on the

platform and go to bed after boarding.

Good night !

My train itinary